France at a Glance

Paris, the City of Lights. What better city to spend a few days in meandering around the streets, tasting the myriad of pastries, immersing yourself deep in history, and (of course) indulging in the fine cuisine. Our 2 days in Paris were unforgettable and honestly a mere aperitif (if you will) leaving us wanting more.

 Fun Fact: Paris got its name “City of Lights” because it was one of the first European cities to have gas-lit streetlamps adorning the city streets. Even today, the streetlamps are considered quintessential Pari. 

Ok, first things first. The key to any short trip in a historic European city is location, location, location. We aren't strong proponents of AirBnB vs. hotels, but in this instance AirBnB / VRBO (take your pick) is a MUST. Not only does this allow you to be close to the action but it also enables you to fully immerse yourself in the Parisian way of living…even if the bathrooms and kitchens are small. I mean, are you really going to cook while you’re in Paris?! As long as there is a coffee machine, I’m happy.

Secondly, with little time on our hands it was essential to find a good and efficient way to see the city. The best thing we did as we arrived in Paris was book a “Hop on Hop-off” bus tour (Hop On Hop Off – HopOnHopOff.fr). I stand by this mode of transportation to this day. It's not only an inexpensive way to get around the city, but depending on your mood, you could elect to spend the entire time riding around looking at the great sights while soaking in the history all around you.

Ok, now that you've nailed down the important things, let's dive into some of the key aspects that make this a "one of a kind" city...it's history.

The area began its long history in 4th century BC where it was founded by the Celtic tribe, Parisii. When a threat of invasion by the Huns was imminent in 451, Saint Genevieve urged the Parisian people to stay and fight ultimately warding off the threat. Later he was canonized as the Patron Saint of Paris (Genevieve - Wikipedia). Then, in the early 6th century, Paris was made the capital city by Colvis I, the first King of the Franks. Paris has seen a lot of major historical events from the French Revolution, fall of the monarchy with the execution of King Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette, the rise of Napoleon Bonaparte, the Hundred Years' War, the bubonic plague, and survived bombings in both World Wars. Paris was also center stage in the "Age of Enlightenment" with its numerous famous historical residents (Artists, philosophers, writers, etc.). As we move throughout the city, you'll see that this history is alive in the monuments, museums, and culture each and every day.

One other notable aspect of this iconic city is the wide variety of architecture and unique city planning. The city itself is set up in a spiral urban layout with 20 neighborhoods, or arrondissenments, each as unique as the next. The architecture sprinkled throughout the city ranges from Gothic, to French Baroque, to French Renaissance, and Art Deco. Keep an eye out for this as you ride along on the bus.

Day 1

We began our day in the Latin Quarter with none other than a quintessential Parisian lunch at a local restaurant, Papilla Soufflot. This beautiful café was just around the corner from the Pantheon (Panthéon - Wikipedia); one of the most iconic buildings in Paris and a site of great significance in the city's history, namely the original burial site of Saint Genevieve.

This monument is in the 5th arrondissement, constructed from 1758-1790 by Jacques-Germain Soufflot at the request of King Louis XV with the intent to be a church dedicated to Saint Genevieve. However, due to the French Revolution coinciding with the completion of construction, the National Constituent Assembly voted to transform the church into a mausoleum for the remains of distinguished French citizens. Over time the building has continued to serve as a mausoleum for many French figures. Namely Victor Hugo, Voltaire, Jean-Jacques Rousseau (philosopher), Josephine Baker (singer / dancer), Marie Curie (physicist).

The pediment at the front of the façade, features a central figure, Lady Justice, representing "The Nation distributing crowns handed to her by Liberty to great men, civil and military, while history inscribes their names". At each side are figures of distinguished scientists, philosophers, statesmen, Napoleon Bonaparte, soldiers from each military service, and students in uniform.  At the base is an inscription: "Aux grands hommes la patrie reconnaissante" (To the great men, from a grateful nation).

Not far from the Pantheon is the College de France (Collège de France - Wikipedia). The college is the home of 21 Nobel Prize winners. Interestingly enough, the college doesn't grant degrees. Lectures given by the professors are free and open to anyone, supporting the college's motto of "Docet Omnia" (It teaches everything) with a goal to "teach science in the making". I absolutely love the inscription in the main hall by Maurice Merleau-Ponty "Not acquired truths, but the idea of freely-executed research".

It is no surprise that the College de France has one of the best research libraries in Europe.

Fun Fact: over 650 audio podcasts of College de France lectures are available on iTunes and the college hosts several videos of classes…why not join in?

Just on the fringe of the Latin Quarter in Saint-Germain is a little restaurant called La Citrouille (La Citrouille / Restaurant traditionnel / Paris (restaurantlacitrouille.fr)). It is, hands down, our most favorite restaurant in Paris! Not only do they have Betty Boop on the walls, a resident cat named Alice (Alice la Chat), but the food was amazing in every way. Three course lunch for <20 Euros…yes please!

Luckily, nearby is one of the most iconic buildings in Paris, Notre Dame (Notre-Dame de Paris - Wikipedia). It was good to walk a bit after the gorgeous meal.

Unfortunately, it was with somber eyes that we gazed upon the structure from a distance as it was only a year prior that this historic landmark was tragically taken down by a fire. Even in its current state it remains a magnificent stunning piece of architecture and history. The community that has come together to help restore this masterpiece is quite amazing. I cannot wait to see it once it is returned to its previous glory.

Back on the bus, we traveled across the Seine into 1st and 2nd arrondissenments. We passed by the Musee d'Orsay and Musee de Louvre, two museums which I'm sure are well known to all. Obviously a must stop for those who want to spend the whole day (yes, it is an entire day activity) soaking in the amazing art and culture contained within its walls. However, for this short trip we had to continue on our way towards the 8th arrondissenment and the infamous Av. Des Champs-Elysees…and one of my favorite places (Champs-Élysées - Wikipedia).

It's hard to describe the experience as you travel down the Champs-Elysees atop a double decker bus. As you cruise past beautiful white buildings that line the street, it's clear this is a true fashion mecca. Breezing past the likeness of Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Prada, and Gucci. It really is a vibrant street full of people, shops, cafes, and beautiful trees lining the boulevard as you make your way closer and closer to the Arc de Triumph and what can only be described as a structural work of art.

While the Champs-Elysees and the Arc de Triomphe steal the show, it's hard not to recognize the engineering mastery that is the 8-lane wide round about that encircles the Arc de Triomphe. For those of you who have seen European Vacation, you know that an unsuspecting tourist (yes American) can spend the better part of their day navigating this vehicular marvel. But to see it in person is to really appreciate its size and magnificence. I was fortunate enough back in 2002 to walk across the round-about when the tunnel below the roadway was closed due to the Soccer World Cup (France vs. Denmark) and fear of things getting out of hand, forced the Parisian Police to close the road down to allow pedestrians to make their way off the Arc de Triomphe monument.

Once you make it to the Arc de Triomphe I encourage you to budget time to stay here for a while. Wondering around the grounds, admiring the magnificence of the arch and

ornate stonework and carvings…and if possible, make your way over to a tour group for a free history lesson ;-). Now a little bit about this marvel...

Arc de Triomphe de l'étoile (Triumphal Arch of the Star) (Arc de Triomphe - Wikipedia) a Neoclassical landmark designed by Jean-François-Thérèse Chalgrin in 1806 sits at the center of Palace Charles de Gaulle at the intersection of 12 avenues and where three arrondissements join, 16th, 17th, and 8th. The arc honors those who fought and died in the French Revolutionary and Napoleonic Wars. The names of all French victories and generals are inscribed in the inner and outer surfaces. At the center of the arch lies the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier from WWI.

Fun fact: In 1919 following the Paris victory parade at the end of WWI, Charles Godefroy flew his biplane under the arch. The arch has been used in numerous burial ceremonies, a rally point for French troops, and for the annual Bastille Day military parade.

As the sun sets and our day transitions into evening, we make a quick stop back to the Airbnb for a quick change of clothes to match the Parisian culture. Then we headed to the 9th arroissdonments to the Palais Granier (Palais Garnier - Wikipedia), an Italian style opera house well known for many things, but perhaps most well known as the setting for Gaston Leroux's novel The Phantom of the Opera. The 9th arrondissement is a fabulous area to catch a delicious cocktail and appetizer before heading to a world-renowned dinner at Chez Monsieur (Chez Monsieur). Our meal was out of this world and a great place to celebrate Gerry's birthday, particularly when it came to their escargot.

Day 2 

Another day packed with history, food, photos, and we even managed to squeeze in a little "down time" at one of my favorite spots in the city.

Aboard the bus, we made our way through the 7th arrondissement. As we drove down the lamp-lane street leading up to the Hotel des Invalides, it's massive size and beauty was breath taking. This large complex includes a matrix of army museums and monuments celebrating French military history. The complex houses the Royal Chapel (Dome des Invalides) and the tallest church in Paris at 107m which contains Napoleon Bonaparte's grand tomb (1840), a must see.

As we travel north, we cross over the river Seines via the ornate Pont Alexandre III bridge (Pont Alexandre III - Wikipedia). This Beaux-Arts Style bridge is adorned with Art Nouveau lamps, nymphs, and four of the most beautiful bronze statues of Fames restraining Pegasus. The design of the bridge was an engineering marvel in its day. Consisting of a 20ft high single span arch, designed to not obstruct the view of the Invalides and Champs-Elysees. No matter how many times I drive across this bridge, I just can't help but snap a few photos in an attempt to capture a portion of its brilliance.

Past the Alexandre III Bridge and the Grand Palais, we enter the famed Place de la Concorde (Place de la Concorde - Wikipedia). At 19 acres, it is the largest square in the French capital and the site of many historical executions during the "Reign of Terror" (1793): King Louis XVI, Marie Antoinette, and Maximilien Robespierre.

The Egyptian obelisk at the center of the Place de la Concorde was a gift to France by the Egyptian government in the 19th century replacing the original statue of Louis XV destroyed during the revolution. Accompanying the obelisk are two fountains. The Maritime Fountain to the south representing the French seas and the Fluvial Fountain to the north illustrating the great rivers of France, also the original location of the guillotine used during the "Reign of Terror". It's hard not to take a few moments to reflect on the historic events that took place in the very same place that you are standing; a somber moment.

After a morning of being emersed in French history, you sure work up an appetite. Don't worry I knew exactly what was needed. We head back over to the Bonne Nouvelle to Leon - Opera (Restaurant Léon à Paris Opéra - Spécialités de la mer (restaurantleon.fr)). One word of advice, when they say 3X the number of mussels, they mean it! Even though the quantities were way out of proportion, the taste was unforgettable…especially when they are accompanied by fresh chips!

After our meal we were due for a long walk to aid in the digestion of our 'feast'. We hopped on the bus and made our way to our final stop just ahead of the city transitioning over into its glamorous night life was none other than the Eiffel Tower (Eiffel Tower - Wikipedia).

Even as you make the drive towards the promenade you can't take you eye off the tower and its distinct stature situated in the heart of the city. The views from the promenade are breathtaking. If there is one thing that I insist it is grabbing a couple of bottles of Gerard Bertrand wine (or your favorite), plastic glasses, find a spot out in the Jardin de la Tour Eiffel, and basking in the engineering and artistic glory of the Eiffel Tower, a sight to behold.

Before we called it a night, we had to make our way over to a local rugby bar (Bar Rugby Paris- No Scrum No Win Clubhouse (clubhousensnw.com)). We were fortunate enough to come on a night where the local rugby team won, and the bar was flooded with energy and a fan favorite song: "oh Champs-Elysees" (Joe Dassin - Les Champs-Elysées (Audio) (youtube.com)). Which thankfully we were well aware of as it was a song played on the bus as we rode around the city. What a fitting end to an amazing trip. Au Revoir...for now.